San Marzano makeover in Merrick

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Bucatini with meatballs at San Marzano Brick Oven

Bucatini with meatballs at San Marzano Brick Oven Pizzeria in Merrick. (December 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

With both its quarters and its menu expanded, the remodeled San Marzano Brick Oven Pizzeria in Merrick was a warm refuge on a chilly night, thanks to its wood-burning pizza oven. Service, however, was a bit cool and detached.

New to the menu were pastas and entrees. A big hit was bucatini with meatballs ($13), the pasta was nicely al dente, the marble-size meatballs savory and  light. I found it hard to visually differentiate between the eggplant Parmigiana ($11) and the baked penne with sopresatta ($12), both presented in identical bubbling cheese-topped casseroles. Both were pretty good, in a creamy, cheesy way.

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On the new roster of appetizers: arugula salad ($10), fried calamari ($11) and antipasto ($9).

The restaurant's original list of pizzas and calzones remains essentially as it was.

San Marzano Brick Oven Pizzeria is at 38 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-546-3300,

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