Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

There’s this friend of mine with whom I have the worst restaurant luck. North Shore or South Shore, Suffolk or Nassau, Italian or Japanese — we never seem to have a good meal. Last night I took her to Sapsuckers in Huntington, and I’m happy to report that the spell — or at least the streak — is broken.

Sapsuckers Hops & Grub is what I call a going concern. Not only is it crowded (almost every table filled on a weeknight), but everyone on staff knows what they’re doing. The menu is succinct, focused, well priced. Servings are generous — amazingly so when it came to our appetizer, an adorable 5-by-5-inch stoneware casserole brimming with macaroni and cheese (four cheeses plus truffle oil) that cost $9. We barely got through half of it, and I spied another patron who had wisely ordered it as his main course.

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My burger ($15) and fries could not have been improved upon. My pal had a special, a tender, savory lamb meatloaf served with a mountain of mashed potatoes.

I can’t handle a lot of beer; my friend even less. So our waitress thoughtfully split our pint of wheat beer into two stemmed glasses.

Sapsuckers Hops & Grub is at 287 Main St., Huntington, 631-683-4945.