Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

This week’s pizza of the week is the Genovese at Saverio’s Pizza Room in Massapequa.

There’s no bad pie at this 3-month-old wood-fired pizzeria, thanks to pizzaiolo Sam Cataldo’s skill. But the simpler pizzas put the spotlight where it belongs: on an elegant crust that has the well-developed flavor of rustic bread. Following Neapolitan tradition, Cataldo presses his dough out to be thin in the center, but puffy around the edges.

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The Margherita pie, made with mozzarella from A & S Pork Store (which adjoins Saverio’s and has the same owners) is highly recommended, but even simpler is the Genovese ($12 for a 12-inch pie), named for the long-cooked Neapolitan sauce made sweet by its high concentration of onions. Cataldo follows the recipe of his late mother-in-law, Enza Giammarino, spreads it on the dough, and tops it only with fresh basil.

Cataldo started making the pie because he’s trying to limit his dairy consumption, but it quickly became his favorite.

Saverio’s Pizza Room is at 929 N. Broadway, Massapequa, 516-799-0091