The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Newly reopened after a five-year hiatus and a major makeover, Savinos Hideaway in Mount Sinai embodies its hideaway appellation. Embedded in a residential area, the place is as gracious as it is gorgeous.
Manager Maria Carson, whose parents are owners Savino and Rita Sguera, said the interior used to be paneled in dark wood. Now, clean white wainscoting defines the airy, tasteful space whose look Carson calls Southampton. Carson and her brother Joseph Sguera did the entire interior redesign themselves.
A recent meal began with a crisp and appealing individual Margherita pizza ($7) topped with melted mozzarella both shredded and in slabs over a very good tomato sauce. The place scored points for a dish called chicken alla Leo ($13) boneless thighs, not breasts roasted with rosemary and served with roasted potatoes. Spaghetti Calabrese ($13), made with red, yellow and hot peppers, was assertive rather than aggressive another winner. And creamy house-made Italian cheesecake ($7) was marred only by its icy-cold temperature.
The wine list, though especially the by-the-glass selections could be more extensive and interesting.
Savinos Hideaway is at 258 North Country Rd., Mount Sinai, 631-928-6510.
The individual Margherita pizza at Savino's Hideaway in Mount Sinai scores high marks for its crisp crust, lively sauce and creamy cheese.