The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
One of the pagers handed to diners-in-waiting at Bostwick's Chowder House is shaped like a lobster.
It's likely that lobster will be your choice at the East Hampton mainstay, where there's almost always a line to get in and no reservations are taken.
But, on a sunny afternoon or evening, the outdoor tables at casual Bostwick's seem like a near-ideal perch from which to say farewell to summer.
Try the house's lobster-salad roll, a traditional, mildly seasoned production, with plenty of lobster meat. The market price applies. Recently, it was $24. You'll also enjoy the house's New England-style clam chowder and the corn chowder, puffy lobster fritters and a crisp oyster po'boy, fish tacos made with mahi mahi and a generous serving of fish and chips, fried fresh whole clam bellies and raw littleneck and cherrystone clams.
And, if you're feeling flush: the steamed lobster, crabmeat-stuffed lobster, or the clambake, which includes a whole lobster, steamed clams, mussels, potatoes and corn on the cob.
Bostwick's Chowder House, 277 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton; 631-324-1111.