Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The big number at Seasons 52 is 475. No single item on the menu is more than 475 calories.

Yes, I know.

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But there is a certain appeal in this concept, which emphasizes mindful eating, with, of course, a seasonal accent. Calorie counts are to the right of  almost all dishes, just before the price.

This branch of the Florida-based chain opened in Roosevelt Field. It's clean and shiny, polite and friendly, handsome and generic. The chaste food fits right in.

Instead of getting a bread basket, you can nibble on a flatbread. The "spicy chipotle shrimp" number is satisfactory, along with the cone of rosemary-and-Parmesan production.

Good appetizers include a tight tuna sushi roll and the modest "Piedmontese" chili. The grilled tuna Nicoise salad is tasty but keeps you far from the Riviera. Grilled steelhead trout: much better.

Desserts arrive in shot glasses. They're called "mini indulgences." Here's to you, carrot cake and Key lime pie.

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Seasons 52, 630 Old Country Rd., in Roosevelt Field, between Grand Lux Cafe and the movies, Garden City; 516-248-5252.

"Mini indulgences," presented by Seasons 52