The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Senor Nacho, with its repertoire of Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes, hopes to be one with staying power in the cavernous Great Neck space thats hosted a string of predecessors most recently, Miraku, and, before that, Banyan, Great Neck Steak House, Dinos and Pulcinella.
Big, bold colorful murals in a folkloric Mexican motif are attention-getters. And both the Margarita and the sangria work well with nachos and the lively lime-accented guacamole ($11) prepared tableside in a molcajete or traditional stone mortar and pestle.
An order of three traditional street tacos ($3 each) made with soft corn tortillas, produced two successes: one featuring spicy pork al pastor and the other, succulent cubes of beef tongue. But a filling of fried pork carnitas turned up bland and dry.
A standout main course was chuletas ($14), savory grilled marinated pork chops with potatoes, vegetables and sweet plantains. And combination fajitas ($18) made with shrimp, chicken and steak also worked.
Senor Nacho is at 31 S. Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516- 466-0011, senornachony.com.