Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Late lunch? Early supper? In the last few weeks I’ve thoroughly enjoyed dining in the late afternoon.  

Kyma, a Greek seafood restaurant in Roslyn, can be a madhouse at dinner, the noise level ranging from hubbub to din. When we arrived at 4 p.m., a few large parties were winding down and the mood was serene. Sunlight streamed through the tall windows, making the restaurant’s Greek Island vibe all the more believable.

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We started with a green salad, composed of the classic maroulosalata trio of romaine, scallions and dill but tossed with a creamy, Feta-enriched dressing. Grilled sardines were tender and smoky, as was the grilled octopus, though I confess to prefer one big tentacle lying across my plate rather than these decorous, bias-cut slices, needlessly prettified with a confetti of red and yellow peppers.  

Our party had three grilled whole fish: black sea bass, dorado and pink snapper. All were good, if lacking that sparkle and bounce that distinguish the very best fresh fish.

Aside from the languorous atmosphere, the meal’s two highlights were the syrup-drenched walnut cake and our friendly, knowledgeable waiter, who expounded on subjects as diverse as the history of Greek coffee and the etymology of “pagan.”

We left at 6:30, as the light was beginning to fade, and the dining room was beginning to fill.

Kyma is at 1446 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-621-3700, kyma-roslyn.com

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