The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
La Marmite has witnessed more than 40 springs. But this year's is especially bright.
Credit executive chef Gregory Kearns, whose family acquired the Victorian landmark in 2013. His current menu is a genuine taste of the season.
Standouts include airy gnocchi primavera with ramp pesto, spring vegetables, and delicious morels. It's almost rivaled by the delicate sweet-pea agnolotti with lobster, pea shoots, and spring onion.
Kearns also prepares excellent appetizers, among them the boudin blanc with spring onions, whole-grain mustard and baby greens; and tender grilled octopus with fregola and taggiasca olives. His seared halibut with artichoke and sunchoke puree tops the seafood. For dessert, try the fine Meyer lemon creme brulee.
La Marmite, 234 Hillside Ave., Williston Park; 516-746-1243.