Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Gone are those defrosted and overcooked lobster tails and the filet mignon done to charcoal gray. This imperfect match used to be what you'd expect when ordering the ever-popular surf-and-turf main course.

But the new wave of high-end steakhouses has banished it to history. Now, you can fashion your own two-way dinner, with rare, prime beef and uncooked fish. It's steak and sushi time.

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Here are four restaurants where you'll find two of Long Island's most popular food groups.

BLACKSTONE STEAKHOUSE

Here's the expense-account restaurant for the Route 110 business corridor, both for business and socializing. Superior shellfish cocktails and raw bar platters, carefully composed sushi rolls, top-tier sashimi, and excellent steaks, porterhouse to rib-eye and filet mignon.

10 Pinelawn Rd., Melville; 631-271-7780.

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INSIGNIA

This extravagant, pricey and very good restaurant makes a little stretch of Nesconset Highway seem like an extension of Las Vegas Boulevard, minus gambling. Winners on the menu include strip steaks, porterhouse steak, lamb chops, steamed lobster, grilled fish, and vivid sushi rolls.

610 Nesconset Hwy., Smithtown; 631-656-8100.

RARE650

The social scene is quite a show at Rare650. But the food is better at the boldly designed restaurant. Recommendations include the filet mignon, porterhouse, bone-in rib steak, seared sea scallps, and plenty of lively sushi rolls as well as the pristine sashimi.

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650 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-496-8000.

UNION PRIME STEAK & SUSHI

The newest member of the well-marbled genre, Union contributes mightily to Northern Boulevard's steakhouse row. Traditional sushi is excellent. Likewise, shellfish cocktails, the shellfish plateau, the Kansas City strip steak, bone-in rib steak, and, to conclude, the epic, warm cinnamon bun.

661 Northern Blvd., Great Neck; 516-487-9200.