The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Stango's at the Orchard in Glen Cove, which went on a brief hiatus this winter, has reopened. What's known to be Long Island's oldest Italian restaurant has a new chef, a new look and a new menu (with higher prices). The place is still owned by a group of investors headed by political couple Helene and Tom Suozzi.
In charge of the kitchen now is Phil Morizio, whose 20-year-old Oyster Bay restaurant, Cafe Al Dente, was closed last September over code violations. Morizio has since sued the town, accusing it of violating his rights. That case is ongoing.
At Stango’s, Morizio has done away with the red checkered tablecloths and put lamps on every table. “I’m happy and proud to carry on the tradition of this restaurant,” he said of the 95-year-old place. Morizio added that he's met with the 97-year-old Stella Cocchiola, a member of the founding family. “I’ve kept Stella’s pork chops on the menu and asked her exactly how to make them,” Morizio said.
The new menu is both broader and more costly than the one the restaurant opened with, although entrees and pastas now are preceded by a gratis house salad of mixed greens, Gorgonzola and provolone. A glance reveals such items as pignoli-crusted shrimp with an ala vodka dipping sauce ($9), Buffalo calamari salad ($14), Stella’s rigatoni with crumbled sausage and broccoli rabe ($24), Stella’s pork chops with vinegar peppers ($24), chicken Parmigiana with baked manicotti ($24), teriyaki steak and fries ($30) and lobster mac and cheese ($30). You can still get a classic cheese pizza ($13), a burger ($8.50) and a sausage-and-pepper hero ($8.50). Among desserts is a house-made tiramisu ($6).
“We’re aiming to make everyone happy,” said co-owner Helene Suozzi.
Stango’s at the Orchard is at 19 Grove St., Glen Cove, 516-671-2389.