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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Restaurant Yamaguchi, the popular Port Washington sushi bar, has reopened two and a half years after a fire destroyed its original location. The completely renovated new location is a few doors down Main Street in the single-story building that used to be Konbini, a sort of Japanese five-and-dime store.

Yasuko Yamaguchi owns the restaurant with her husband, head sushi chef Akira Yamaguchi.

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Since it opened in 1988, Yamaguchi has been one of the very best Japanese restaurants on Long Island, and one that has stuck to its traditional guns in the face of fusion and ever-more-elaborate maki rolls. It reopens into a competitive field. Port Washington has long been an epicenter for Japanese cuisine. When Yamaguchi closed in 2013, there were three other Japanese restaurants within two blocks (Aiko Sushi & Bar, Bonsai and Aki Japanese). Now, with the opening of the very elegant Hana across from the LIRR tracks, there are four.

Restaurant Yamaguchi is at 49 Main St., Port Washington, 516-883-3500.