Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Hana opened last week in Port Washington, bringing the number of Japanese restaurants in the blocks adjacent to the LIRR station up to four. (Aiko Sushi & Bar, Bonsai and Aki Japanese are all within a 10th of a mile.)

This newest sushi contender takes over the capacious premises that used to house Crave and, before that, Haven Grill, Cafe Capriccio and Montebello.

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Hana's facade is elaborately paneled with bamboo, and the interior is all blond wood and clean surfaces. Much of the seating is at roomy booths or along the L-shaped sushi bar. That sushi bar is unusual: Fish is stored out of sight in a closed cooler.

Hana's menu emphasizes the more luxurious end of the sushi spectrum. Omakase (chef's choice) at the sushi bar is $120 for one person. A five-course omakase dinner for an entire table is $90 per person. The menu also lists less exalted raw-fish standards such as assorted sushi ($40) or chirashi ($33). From the kitchen: braised black cod ($29), seafood risotto ($39) and super-marbled Wagyu beef from Japan ($85 for a 12-ounce ribeye).

Hana is at 14 Haven Ave., Port Washington, 516-883-4262.