The 1770 House in East Hampton, starring in 2012

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Lobster roll at The 1770 House in East

Lobster roll at The 1770 House in East Hampton. (Aug. 2012) Photo Credit: Newsday Peter M. Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Memorial Day to Labor Day is only a seasonal interlude at The 1770 House.

Executive chef Kevin Penner and chef de cuisine Matt Birnstill ensure that the restaurant stands out year-round. It's one of the best kitchens on the East End, a charming, warm destination, defined by excellent food, smart service and serene style.

For a last taste of summer, they prepare an outstanding New England-style lobster roll, a triptych of deftly seasoned lobster salad on a buttery bun alongside ideal fries and organic greens.

Even better: the impeccably fresh cut of swordfish accompanied by roasted fennel, shishito peppers and farro finished with a cherrystone-clam nage.

And, if you're not here for seafood, sample the lush, flavorful suckling pig, with escarole, white beans, tomato confit and rosemary. You could go all porky with an opener of delecable smoked baby back ribs, with green apple, red onion, cilantro and lime.

The apple cobbler and the sticky date cake with toffee sauce each confidently bridge summer and fall.

The 1770 House, 143 Main St., East Hampton; 631-324-1770.

The lobster roll at The 1770 House.

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