Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The Capital Grille at Roosevelt Field already is as jammed as the mall during holiday season. The economy must be improving.

This restaurant, part of a 48-branch chain, specializes in steak (very good) and seafood (often better), in a setting marked by horsey and fox-hunt paintings, deer heads, portraits that take in Charles Lindbergh for a local angle and Jackie Kennedy for style. And there's a statue of the scales of justice at the entrance to the bar.

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It's all precisely calculated in an upscale, corporate way -- from the look to the pace. Everyone is polite and on-message. Weekend walk-ins should expect a wait. Some choose to eat in the bar, which itself overflows.

While on the subject of libations, you can rent a wine locker for $350 a year, but the 12 bottles must be purchased from the Grille's list. No corkage fee, however.

To go with your wine: fine lobster-and-crab cakes; a juicy, bone-in, dry-aged Kona-coffee crusted sirloin; thick and moist grilled swordfish with lemon-shallot relish; and crisp Parmesan-and-truffle oiled fries. Lots of choices. Figure $75 to $100 per person for dinner, with a drink and dessert.

Good shopping nearby, too.

The Capital Grille, 630 Old Country Rd., Garden City, at Roosevelt Field, near the movies; 516-746-1675.

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Photo: Lobster-and-crab cakes at The Capital Grille.