Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The Lake House in Bay Shore earned three stars in 2006. Six years later, it still shines.

Eileen and Matthew Connors run a charming, inviting restaurant at the edge of Lawrence Lake. It's ideal for a special occasion but just as attractive if you want a refined night out.

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Chef Matthew's pan-roasted local sea bass, atop red potatoes, finished with a wild-mushroom emulsion and Port reduction, is a subtle smash. He plays with the theme of bouillabaisse, with an excellent cut of halibut afloat in an aromatic broth full of shellfish. Even better: wild-mushroom risotto with maitake, corn and truffled pecorino cheese.

Conclude with the warm cinnamon doughnuts served  alongside a cup of Mexican hot chocolate. And schedule your next visit.

The Lake House, 240 W. Main St., Bay Shore; 631-666-0995.

Dining room with a view: The Lake House.