Tony Colombos in Rockville Centre: First bites

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Rice balls filled with beef ragu and peas Rice balls filled with beef ragu and peas are an appetizer at Tony Colombos in Rockville Centre, August 2014. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Tony Colombos, full of good feeling and Italian-American favorites, is the newest entry in Long Island's most-competitive cuisine.

The restaurant, on the former site of Cielo, keeps the red sauce flowing and makes some tasty additions to the familiar repertoire. You'll like it.

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Try the rice balls, filled with beef ragu and sweet peas, set on tomato sauce. Sample the fennel salad, updated with a blood-orange vinaigrette. Enjoy the husky lasagna, with a sausage-driven spin on Bolognese sauce. Dig into beef braciola. Confidently order eggplant Parmigiana.

And pick Italian cheesecake for dessert.

Tony Colombos is a joint effort by chef Tony Colombo, formerly of Cirella's in Melville and Mannino's in Oakdale; and Art Gustafson, chef-owner of Chadwicks American Chop House & Bar in Rockville Centre.

Tony Colombos, 208 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre; 516-678-1996.


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