Tre Sorelle, Sea Cliff: First bites

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The lasagna at Tre Sorelle in Sea Cliff

The lasagna at Tre Sorelle in Sea Cliff

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Tre Sorelle, tucked into a Sea Cliff strip mall,  joins the ranks of  Long Island spots with a pizzeria in the front and a dining room in the rear.  This one is attractively appointed in soothing neutral tones.

On a recent evening, I stopped by for a dinner that began with a crisp crusted individual Margherita pie ($9.95), an appealing confluence of tomato sauce and cheese on top. Shrimp marinara ($12.95) —  plump shellfish in a bright red sauce — made for another auspicious opener. But an entree of chicken scarpariello ($18.95) was marred by dry, overcooked poultry. Far better was the lasagna ($12.95), meltingly rich and satisfying.

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The place, whose name, in Italian, means “three sisters,” is owned by siblings Summer Butindari, Lauren Butindari and Lia Jorquera.

Tre Sorelle is at 347 Glen Cove Ave., Sea Cliff, 516-676-2900,

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