The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
After months of construction, Trento has opened across Route 110 from Republic Airport. The Italian restaurant has completely transformed what used to be the site of the Crazy Donkey club. Its a terrific-looking establishment, with a stylish interior done in shades of amber and stone. The bi-level main dining room has comfortable booths and roomy tables. There are additional rooms for busy nights and/or private parties, as well as a nicely appointed bar.
For all the splendor, the menu is concise. The food ranges from traditional Long Island pizzeria-trattoria fare (fried calamari, fried eggplant with tomato sauce, spaghetti pomodoro, linguine vongole, chicken bruschetta, Parms, Franceses and Marsalas) to more ambitious items such as Kobe beef meatball, sausage-potato pizzetta, Chilean sea bass with grapes and Prosecco and a new pasta for me, troffolini stuffed with pears and ricotta and drizzled with truffle oil. Appetizers and salads are in the low teens, most pastas around $20, entrees from $19 to $35, for veal chop Milanese.
Trento is owned by Moe Soliman, Emilio Branchinelli and Anthony Greco, partners in Ginos pizzerias in Massapequa, Bethpage, North Bellmore and Islip. (This Emilio Branchinelli is the cousin of the Emilio Branchinelli who owns Emilios in Commack, Pasta-Eria in Hicksville and Fanatico in Jericho.) The chef is Tom Avalon, who Soliman said owned a restaurant in the Caribbean.
As for the name Trento, a city in Italys Trentino-Alto Adige region most famous for hosting the Council of Trent that launched the Counter-Reformation in the 16th century, Soliman said that some of the partners had relatives there and that the restaurants designer had been drawn to the name's distinctiveness and strength.
Trento is at 1058 Broadhollow Rd., Farmingdale, 631-501-0303, trento110.com.