Turquoise in Great Neck swims into fancy digs

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Whole red tilapia served at Turquoise restaurant in

Whole red tilapia served at Turquoise restaurant in Great Neck. Photo Credit: Newsday/Marjorie Robins

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Used to be that the tail on your whole grilled fish almost reached into the plate of the person sitting at the table next to you. But now the sliver of a restaurant called Turquoise has moved from its tiny digs across from the Great Neck train station into a spacious spot on the village's main drag, Middle Neck Road.

The relocated restaurant, which took over the space of the once-popular Classico, is airy, with white cutout leather seats and a revolving chandelier over the bar. And while the location and decor are new, the fish-centric menu is the same. “We’ve had the same five chefs cooking for over 10 years,’’ says owner Erica Babushkin.

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And what good fish those loyal cooks turn out. A grilled red (female) St. Peter’s fish was plump with crispy skin and moist meat at dinner last night. Ditto for the branzino. Also offered as whole fish preparations: Black St. Peter’s, sea bass, dorade and striped bass, all about $30 to $32. An array of fillets, from flounder to salmon to tuna, is also on the menu, all between $26 and $32. The big bonus: gratis dishes of homemade green tahini, baba ganoush, tzatziki and pickled vegetables. They don’t get better than this.

There are a few meat dishes, like grilled lamb chops and rib eye steak, but fish and Mediterranean salads rule. At lunch, there is a $15 price-fixed offering.

Turquoise, 76 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-487-3737.

St. Peter's fish at Turquoise

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