Vittorio's in Amityville: An update

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Steakhouse, Italian, wine bar — Vittorio's in Amityville definitely is the sum of its parts.

Based on a recent dinner, the steakhouse side has the most appeal at this downtown mainstay, in a landmark, corner building.

Very good choices from that genre include the crabmeat cocktail, the dry-aged New York strip steak and sides such as mashed potatoes and crisp, fried onions.

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Just don't ask for the steak prepared alla pizzaiola. The Italian section at Vittorio's isn't so consistent. There's some irony here, since Vittorio's now-closed offspring, Vero, twice earned high ratings for its small-plate, Italian fare.

Now, you may enjoy a pretty modest salumi-and-cheese plate for the table. It includes prosciutto, mortadella, provolone and Asiago, some olives, roasted peppers, a sweet relish. They'd all fit in a husky hero sandwich.

The cheese to sample, however, is the increasingly available burrata, the mozzarella-and-cream favorite, served with roasted peppers. If you're up for pasta, the bucatini with short-rib ragu edges garganelli with veal-and-sage sauce, and is well ahead of a disappointing linguine with white clam sauce.

None of the desserts will get your attention. None should.

Maybe they'll add a steakhouse staple: New York-style cheesecake. Drink to that with an Italian wine.

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Vittorio's Restaurant & Wine Bar, 184 Broadway, Amityville; 631-264-3333.

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