The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Upstairs, an elevator and a light year from Fox Hollow's meetings, weddings and assorted catered affairs, is Volpe.
This serene, traditionally appointed dining room, removes you from the din and sometimes from 2014. It has the style of an old-fashioned continental, and much of the menu reflects that, too.
Volpe, which means fox in Italian, is the renovated ristorante that looks as if it has been here before locavore overload, molecular gastronomy and the general deification of kale.
So, enjoy that crisp, good fritto misto of calamari, shrimp and zucchini. Or dig into the generously sauced, satisfying eggplant Siciliana. Try hearty pacceri alla Barese, or plump rigatoni tossed with broccoli raab and sausage. But skip the pasty, flat "lobster risotto al forno." Creme brulee and tiramisu are respectable sweets.
And have your own private party, sometimes with live music.
Wednesday is lobster night, followed by "Prime rib Thursday," just in case.
Volpe Ristorante, 7725 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury; 516-802-7501.