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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

 

Hot, vibrant spice and cool, restrained style combine at  Sarin in Greenvale.  The veteran Thai eatery is among those that know how to fine-tune seasoning.

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If you want a rush of spice, this is your kind of restaurant. Not that everything is for fireaters. The kitchen is very good with subtler flavors, too. There's tender chicken satay and even better tom kha gai, or chicken soup with coconut broth, lemongrass and lime juice. Tom yum koong, a peppery shrimp soup, turns up the BTUs fast.

For a mild main, consider the whole, steamed red snapper with ginger and scallion in black bean sauce. Curries are uniformly recommended. A favorite: shrimp with red curry, coconut milk, pineapple and sweet peppers. Attentive and friendly service in a serene setting, too.

Sarin is at 43 Glen Cove Rd., just north of Northern Boulevard, in Greenvale; 516-484-5873.

Shrimp red curry at Sarin. Newsday / Peter Gianotti