Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Before you settle in with Seth Macfarlane for some Oscar fireworks, enjoy a meal at a restaurant that could have been nominated for art direction and set decoration, even special effects.

Insignia in Smithtown s a big, glittery place for excellent steaks and sharp sushi. The expensive, Vegas-style restaurant is sufficiently over-the-top for your own little Oscar party.

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Nisen Woodbury is both cinematic and theatrical, with bold colors and opulent Japanese and New American fare. The exotic sushi rolls are a highlight. Kobe-beef sliders, too.

Four Food Studio in Melville is vividly lit and has an eye-catching layout to go with the spirited social scene. The food is New American. Cotton candy comes before the check.

And can it really be a half century since "Lawrence of Arabia" competed with "To Kill a Mockingbird"? And Peter O'Toole with Gregory Peck? Call 1962 a vintage year. A 50th anniversary toast to David Lean and company.

Insignia, 610 Nesconset Hwy., Smithtown; 631-656-8100.

Nisen Woodbury, 7969 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury; 516-496-7000.

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Four Food Studio, 515 Broadhollow Rd., Melville; 631-577-4444.