Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The cuisine of the Italian coast extends more than 4,700 miles — not including the north and south shores of Nassau and Suffolk.

Italian is Long Island's most popular cooking and seafood contributes plenty to it. Here are three choices where you'll find excellent fish and shellfish, with an Italian accent.

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Casa Rustica in Smithtown is in its 25th year. The exceptional eatery stands out with dishes as different as tuna crudo and lobster oreganata, whole fish baked in a salt crust to swordfish stuffed with pine nuts and raisins. Refresh yourself with a salad of orange, fennel and beets.

Casa Rustica, 175 W. Main St., Smithtown; 631-265-9265.

Blue Sky in Sag Harbor boasts a new chef and a new look this season. The kitchen attracts you with clams casino, tuna tartare, mussels meunière, squid-ink black linguine with lobster in a spicy red sauce, plus a paella of seafood that adds chorizo and chicken.

Blue Sky, 63 Main St., Sag Harbor; 631-725-1810.

Arturo's in Floral Park sits on the Queens-Nassau border, where it has reigned for a very long time. You can start with the torta primavera, a layering of crepes with cheeses and cured meats and end with zabaglione with berries. In between: shrimp sauteed with white wine, butter and garlic; seafood risotto; linguine with white clam sauce; snapper bonne femme, with olives.

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Arturo's, 246-07 Jericho Tpke., Floral Park; 631-352-7418.

The main dining room at Casa Rustica