Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Here comes the foam and gel.

21 Main, a very good and mostly traditional steakhouse, makes a major segue on Monday with a "molecular gastronomy dinner." The dishes are matched with wines from Raphael of Peconic. The April 26 event starts at 7 p.m.

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This ultramodern, one-night update starts with raw oysters paired with spinach-and-Grana Padano foam and Sambuca caviar. The wine with this course is Raphael's '08 First Label Sauvignon Blanc.

That's followed by bison with "tobacco cream, brandy gel, applewood bacon clouds," and the winery's '08 rose of merlot. Third: Chilean sea bass with a prawn meringue, pickled ramps and watermelon "carpaccio," washed down with the '09 Grand Cru Chardonnay.

Tuna comes next, with soy pudding, rice-vinegar gel wasabi "bubbles," ginger-cucumber "spheres," and crisp, green bamboo rice. The match: '07 Cabernet Franc.

Kobe beef then enters in with rhubarb ribbons, litchi-vanilla bean balls and "sassafras air." Only the '06 Estate Merlot could go with that.

The finale is liquid-nitrogen induced ice cream with bacon, egg, orange-juice foam, espresso, chocolate, warm milk air, pistachio and fresh pistachio nuts. That's with the '07 Raphael Port.

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Cost: $85 per person, plus tax and tip.

21 Main is at 21 Montauk Hwy,. West Sayville; 631-567-0900.

Newsday photo / Karen Wiles Stabile