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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Decorated with lots of beachy whitewashed wood, the new Yevma Authentic Cuisine in East Meadow says Southampton more than it does Santorini. Which sets it apart from most other blue-and-white Greek restaurants on Long Island.

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Chef Peter Mesaris, who hails from Greece, establishes his cred with an appetizer of grilled octopus ($15.95), big tentacles served, properly, uncut, bathed in olive oil and oh, so tender. His grilled calamari ($16.95), an entree, is a lot more resistant to the tooth, though. Something you don’t see on every menu — and part of a huge mixed grill for two ($35.95) — is panseta, or thick grilled bacon coated with a lemon-thyme-honey sauce. Intriguing — and very good.

Yevma Authentic Greek Cuisine is at 2065 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow, 516-280-2208, yevma.com