Spring training calls for celebration. And some beer.

Bridge the seasons with the big, dark Ten FIDY Imperial Stout from Oskar Blues Brewery in Colorado. It could make you pull for the Rockies, at least in April. This chocolaty stout is from a brewer best known for fine, hoppy Dale's Pale Ale. Oskar Blues also stands out with the snappy, refreshing Mama's Little Yella Pils and Old Chub, a spirited, Scottish-style ale. Ten FIDY is about $14 for a four-can pack.

In bottle, you'll find the irresistibly named Brooklyn Black Ops. This malty, local take on Russian Imperial Stout arrives smoothly. Dense and creamy, with chocolate notes, it finishes on the dry side. About $22 for a 750-ml bottle.

If these brews seem too, well, cerebral, consider a bottle of Orkney Skull Splitter from Scotland. High-octane, with hints of a spice and dried fruit, it's a very assertive production. A six-pack is about $14.

The new spring beer from Samuel Adams is Noble Pils, a hoppy, bright and refreshing brew that succeeds white ale in the seasonal repertoire. It has just enough citrus. A 12-pack is about $17; a six-pack, about $10.

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Long Island's

Wine of the Week

The 2006 Castello di Borghese Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($25) delivers some Burgundian style, in an elegant, buttery, lush Cutchogue wine that's ideal with lobster and salmon, even pasta with cream sauce.