Kicking around a few ideas, you can come up with refreshing ways to celebrate the World Cup, if not fill it. None includes toasting the referees.

Since the Azzurri exited so early, Italian fans must carry on. Try the fruity and ripe 2009 Ceretto Blangè Langhe Arneis ($26), a versatile, not-at-all austere Piedmontese white. Or see red with the vibrant, balanced 2007 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico ($24), with its cherry notes; and the bright, full-bodied and food-friendly 2006 Val di Suga Rosso di Montalcino ($27).

The American team was out of Africa a little later. Remember their efforts with something colorful and refreshing: the 2009 Beckmen Purisima Mountain Grenache Rosé ($18). Go light with the easygoing 2007 Robert Pepi Pinot Grigio ($11). To remember with cabernet sauvignon, sample the big, round 2007 Mount Veeder Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), which scores with black cherry and vanilla; and the lively 2007 Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($28), with fine fruit, especially blackberry.

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To channel the soul of Spain: the bold 2004 Scala Dei Prior ($27), a concentrated combo of Grenache, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, loaded with black fruit; and the 2004 Bodegas Bilbainas Viña Pomal Reserva Rioja ($21), an opulent mouthful of 100 percent tempranillo.

 

Long Island's Wine of the Week

 

The 2008 Corey Creek Gewürztraminer ($35), fresh and floral, has a trademark hint of lychee. Pair this terrific, balanced wine with spicy Asian dishes. The elegant image of the calla lily on the label is by photographer Howard Schatz.