Chef John Ross believes that Thanksgiving wines "should have the same emotional appeal as Thanksgiving foods."

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He sticks to some general food and wine pairing rules for the meal, serving a sparkling wine with appetizers before dinner and a light, fruity red with his turkey and rich side dishes.

But his choices also are personal. He has decades-long relationships with many North Fork winemakers, and takes pride in pouring some of his favorite bottles on Thanksgiving, including a 2008 Lenz Cuvee and a 1997 Lenz Old Vines Merlot Magnum at this meal. His daughter is married to a German winemaker, so the dry riesling chosen for the Moroccan-spiced pumpkins comes from the family's vineyard in Germany. And the ice wine Ross opened for dessert, an Inniskillin Vidal, is from his birthplace, Ontario, Canada.