Liberty, equality, plat du jour. Celebrate Bastille Day July 14 with a visit to one of the comparatively few French restaurants on L'Ile Longue. Here are three choices.
This cozy, charming, evocative restaurant is recommended for roast chicken for two, steak frites or au poivre, mussels mariniere, vichyssoise and specials such as Sunday's lamb stew, Tuesday's coq au vin and Thursday's duck a l'orange. Sample the chocolate mousse anytime.
LE SOIR , 825 Montauk Hwy., Bayport
Brighter than ever, Le Soir prepares flavorful escargots in garlic butter, a coarse, livery country pate, sweetbreads in mushroom-Calvados sauce, sole with almonds, filet mignon in red wine sauce and a duck a l'orange starring pekins from Jurgielewicz Duck Farm.
CHEZ NOELLE , 34 Willowdale Ave., Port Washington; 516-883-3191
Understated and to the point, Chez Noelle keeps a fairly low profile and continues to turn first-timers into regulars. Notable dishes: Dover sole meuniere, rack of lamb, coq au vin, escargots Bourguignonne, warm goat cheese salad and apple tart.