Gastropubs are pouring onto Long Island, with their combination of good brews and solid food. Here are four excellent bets.

THE BRASS RAIL, 107 Forest Ave., Locust Valley; 516-723-9103

This easily recommended gastropub includes a classic bar. The excellent food goes from fried oysters, deviled eggs and fish tacos to short-rib sliders, steak au poivre, and a shrimp-and-oyster po'boy.

LEFT COAST KITCHEN & COCKTAILS, 1810 Merrick Rd., Merrick; 516-868-5338

Lots of brews in bottles and cans go with the full-flavored, creative fare. Notable dishes: potato gnocchi a la cassoulet, with duck confit, duck sausage and butter beans, root beer-glazed pork chop, "more long than short rib," "hot 'n sour slurpy noodles" with prawns and pork belly.

PUBLIC HOUSE 49, 49 E. Main St., Patchogue; 631-569-2767

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The eclectic menu of the downtown mainstay includes tuna tartare, pulled-pork nachos, a wedge salad with Maytag blue cheese, pork shoulder rag├╣ with garganelli pasta, roast chicken with fingerling potatoes and cipollini, and the continental burger with pork belly and fried egg.

J. A. HENEGHAN'S TAVERN, 57 Lido Blvd., Point Lookout, 516-544-2777

The tavern is a busy, friendly spot, with very good beers on tap, TVs tuned to sports and an exposed-brick and stone look that warms up the bar. Chef Nicole Roarke's refined take on pub cuisine includes a first-class New England-style clam chowder, bracing "French five onion" soup, juicy Dijon mustard-crusted pork chop, "Jameson braised" short ribs and sweet potato-and-pancetta hash.