Giulio Cesare has survived the last call at Roosevelt Raceway, the onslaught of Italian Lite, and many an Ides of March.

For years, this was the haute hangout for local powers, and you may still see a respectable share of dealmaking under way.

The decor edges toward kitschy and the service veers between accommodating and brusque. But the traditional Italian dishes are made with care and you can have a very good meal here.

Striped bass alla Livornese, swordfish any style, osso buco and veal Milanese are among the standards, performed with flair.

Pastas are fine, too, particularly the spaghetti all'Amatriciana, the plump manicotti, and penne with ricotta and tomatoes.

They definitely know how to stuff an artichoke, and put together a glistening seafood salad. The cold antipasto is flavorful year-round.

By the time you get to dessert, there's always room for cannoli. The tiramisu and the cheesecake give it a run for its calories. You'll be content with any of them, and with your meal here.

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-Peter M. Gianotti