18 Ellison Ave. Westbury, NY 516-334-2982
While some diners head out in search of ambiance and trendy attitude to make their meal, others will gladly pass on décor and flash for an old-fashioned, hearty meal--and that's where Giulio Cesare of Westbury comes into play. In business since 1972, the name of the game here is traditional Italian food--a promise still kept through its plates of pasta, veal and seafood, with items like the striped bass alla Livornese, osso buco and swordfish among the recommended dishes. Dessert is also kept within the confines of the cuisine, as tiramisu, cheesecake and cannoli are ready to close every meal.Hours:
Noon-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Friday; 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Saturday.Reservations:
Giulio Cesare has survived the last call at Roosevelt Raceway, the onslaught of Italian Lite, and many an Ides of March.
For years, this was the haute hangout for local powers, and you may still see a respectable share of dealmaking under way.
The decor edges toward kitschy and the service veers between accommodating and brusque. But the traditional Italian dishes are made with care and you can have a very good meal here.
Striped bass alla Livornese, swordfish any style, osso buco and veal Milanese are among the standards, performed with flair.
Pastas are fine, too, particularly the spaghetti all'Amatriciana, the plump manicotti, and penne with ricotta and tomatoes.
They definitely know how to stuff an artichoke, and put together a glistening seafood salad. The cold antipasto is flavorful year-round.
By the time you get to dessert, there's always room for cannoli. The tiramisu and the cheesecake give it a run for its calories. You'll be content with any of them, and with your meal here.
-Peter M. Gianotti