Greek seafood catches: three picks

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Long Island has hundreds of seafood restaurants, with a drift net's worth of shellfish and finfish. Here are three that provide a fine catch -- and some very good Greek fare, too.

TRATA
1020 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill
631-726-6200, trata.com

Whole grilled fish is the hallmark of Trata, a summer place that also excels with Greek spreads, grilled octopus, grilled calamari, zucchini and eggplant chips, warm walnut cake and Greek yogurt. Standout Mediterranean swimmers: red fagri, a snapper; lavraki, a bass.

LIMANI
1043 Northern Blvd., Roslyn
516-869-8989, limaniny.com

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This opulent restaurant prepares satisfying, cheese-stuffed calamari; charcoal-grilled shrimp, octopus and swordfish; and imported fish for two or more, such as red fagri, royal dorado and Dover sole. Also: saganaki, spanakopita, hummus, Greek spreads.

ETHOS
25 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck
516-305-4958, ethosrestaurants.com

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The more modest of these three does well with grilled royal dorado, snapper, swordfish, sardines, tiger shrimp, wild salmon. Also: roasted beets with skordalia, zucchini and eggplant chips, loukaniko sausage, lamb chops, roasted chicken.

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