Seeking out LI's 16 best-hidden restaurants
You've driven up and down the same street 10 times, but, still, no sign of that kebab house you're looking for. Hungry and frustrated, you consider calling the authorities to report a missing restaurant. Just then, your GPS announces you've arrived at your destination. "Wrong!" you shout.
Instead of throwing the entire navigation system out the window, you'd do well to understand that it wasn't built to handle Long Island's best-hidden dining spots. Some are tucked away in parking lots, office buildings and apartment houses. Others are secreted away in alleys without proper addresses.
All are worth seeking out, but trying to find them will drive you crazy -- unless you know exactly where to look.
Farm Country Kitchen(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)
In a small house overlooking the Peconic River, Farm Country Kitchen, 513 W. Main St. in Riverhead, finds chef-owner Tom Carson offering a daily-changing lunch menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps. There's also dinner, with such dishes as boneless marinated sliced Crescent Farms duck breast and pan-seared sea scallops over linguine. Ingredients are carefully sourced and mostly local. In fine weather, you can eat on the veranda. Find it: Take exit 72 (Route 25) from the LIE; go almost 3 miles. When you see a Dodge dealership, look right; there should be a chalkboard, brown Colonial and yellow barn. Park in the gravel by either structure; follow the path to the restaurant.
Akbar(Credit: Yana Paskova)
The handsome Akbar, 2 South St., Garden City, specializes in northern Indian fare. You'll enjoy that and a lot more. Recommendations include the samosas, tandoori chicken, tandoori lamb chops, lamb vindaloo, rogan josh; vegetable pakoras; channa masala or chickpea curry; sauteed yellow lentils; simmered black lentils. Find it: Akbar used to have a central location on Ring Road in Roosevelt Field. Now, Long Island's most opulent Indian restaurant requires a few quick turns. Take the Meadowbrook Parkway exit M3W to Stewart Avenue. Merge onto Merchants Concourse. Take a right on Stewart Avenue, then right on South Street.
Pita House(Credit: Randee Daddona)
The East Setauket spinoff of a long-standing Turkish Medford spot, Pita House, 100-27 S. Jersey Ave., serves up savory dips -- such as spicy-hot ezme and tahini-tinged hummus -- as well as juicy, well-marinated kebabs, among them, lamb and chicken. Finish with kazandibi, burnt-sugar-topped custard. Find it: Hard to believe such a large restaurant could be so well hidden. The place is in the Heritage Square strip mall, which is more like a building off a parking lot -- well behind Wild by Nature market. Find the market, and you should be able to find the restaurant.
The Metropolitan Bistro
New American dishes bring you to The Metropolitan Bistro, 39 Roslyn Ave., in Sea Cliff, a spirited restaurant with real personality. Try the beluga lentil salad with andouille sausage, filet mignon sliders, crabcake with sauce rémoulade, pan-seared Chatham cod with lemongrass beurre blanc, roast duck with cashews. Find it: Long Island Expressway exit 39, Glen Cove Road northbound. Turn right at Cedar Swamp Road and then a quick left at the first traffic light onto Sea Cliff Avenue. Stay on Sea Cliff Avenue to Roslyn Avenue.
Biscuits & Barbecue(Credit: Alessandro Vecchi)
In an atmospheric 1940s vintage railroad-car, Biscuits & Barbecue, 106 E. Second St. in Mineola, is a diner specializing in satisfying Louisiana fare as well as slow-smoked chicken and ribs. Not to be missed is the flaky hot biscuit with andouille sausage gravy. Or fiery-sweet blackened catfish. Shrimp and grits, mac and cheese and a warm peach cobbler all add up to major comfort. Find it: The place is secreted away in an industrial section of Mineola. Although the numerical address is correct, it's easy to drive right past, since the place faces sideways.
Sombrero's Southwest Grill(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)
At the Tex-Mex Sombrero's Southwest Grill, 30 Indian Head Rd. in Kings Park, under the same ownership as Dixie's Smokehouse, you can eat surprisingly well, despite much of the food coming from steam trays behind the counter. The pork carnitas work especially well in a taco, burrito or a burrito bowl. Find it: Like Dixie's Smokehouse, the place is situated off Meadow Road, on the other side of a large municipal parking lot.
West End Cafe(Credit: Jeremy Bales)
West End Cafe, 187 Glen Cove Rd. in Carle Place, is a reliable stop for New American fare, with some Euro and Asian side trips. Good choices include the pan-seared halibut with spring-vegetable hash; the grilled pork chop with crisp white polenta, broccoli raab and mostarda; lobster-and-shrimp ravioli; the salmon club; and the house burger. Find it: Look for the inside corner of the Clocktower Shopping Center, on the east side of Glen Cove Road, north of the Long Island Rail Road trestle.
Joe's Garage and Grill(Credit: Randee Daddona)
Joe's Garage and Grill, 40 Peconic Ave. in Riverhead, is a hip race car-themed place that scores with chef Brian Burner's from-scratch cooking and in-house smoking. Try the Tokyo Drift sliders, steamed Asian buns, enfolding succulent house-smoked pork belly, kimchee and cucumber salsa. Or the smoked turkey potpie, served in an iron skillet with a cornbread topping. Find it: The restaurant is not quite on Peconic Avenue but, rather, embedded in a building that fronts the Riverhead municipal parking lot on the side closest to Peconic Avenue.
Turkuaz(Credit: Daniel Brennan)
At the charming Turkuaz, 40 McDermott Ave., in Riverhead, you can look out at the Peconic River from a table on the front porch or a picnic table on the lawn. But the real draw is the Turkish food: a vibrant shepherd's salad, an assortment of lively meze (small plates), as well as fine grilled marinated kebabs. Find it: The restaurant is situated off the municipal lot that fronts the Peconic River. It's at the end closest to the Riverhead Aquarium.
CoolFish(Credit: Barbara Alper)
CoolFish, 6800 Jericho Tpke. in Syosset, attracts a crowd for lunch and dinner. The range of dishes goes from crudo tastings to pulled-pork quesadillas, tuna three ways to butter-poached lobster, almond-crusted swordfish to cinnamon-chipotle double-cut pork chop with whipped sweet potatoes and red cabbage. Find it: There's a sign on Jericho Turnpike, but CoolFish is in an office complex in the back, south of the turnpike.
La Plage(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)
French, Italian and American influences mark chef Wayne Waddington's menu at La Plage, 131 Creek Rd. in Wading River, which takes in dishes such as smoked beef carpaccio, English pea-and-mint ravioli in lamb's shoulder ragù, duck leg confit with chive risotto, gold-and-red beet salad with goat cheese, braised short ribs. Find it: Long Island Expressway exit 68 for William Floyd Parkway to Wading River. County Route 46 merges with the parkway. Keep right to reach Route 25A. Turn left onto Randall Road, right on North Country Road, left on Sound Avenue, right on Creek Road to the beach. La Plage will be on your left, across the street from the beach.
Izumi(Credit: Randee Daddona)
A cavernous house of hibachi and sushi, Izumi, 6550 Jericho Tpke. in Commack, keeps the knives clanging and the vegetables flying. The hibachi menu ranges from single item choices (chicken, shrimp, lobster, calamari, filet mignon, Chilean sea bass) to more ornate combinations. You'll also find a full sushi menu, as well as Japanese kitchen items. Find it: The place looks absolutely minute from the outside. In fact, the entryway is barely visible, squished into a corner of a Commack strip mall perpendicular to Five Guys Burgers and Fries (with whom it shares signage). Stepping inside, you'll gasp to find a lobby with a pond and Buddha statue. The rest of the place is the size of a hockey arena.
Swell Taco(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)
So adorable, jaunty little Swell Taco, 135 Deer Park Ave. in Babylon, offers both soft and hard corn tortillas, along with soft flour tortillas. You can get a fine fish taco as well as a "crunch and munch" ground beef taco featuring a hard corn tortilla wrapped in a soft flour one. Great margaritas, too. Find it: The place isn't on Deer Park Avenue but behind it, reachable via an alleyway next to Fitness Incentive. It faces a municipal parking lot and is situated between the rear entrances of Fitness Incentive and Mary Carroll's Bar & Beer Garden. Find it: The place isn't on Deer Park Avenue but behind it, reachable via an alleyway next to Fitness Incentive. It faces a municipal parking lot and is situated between the rear entrances of Fitness Incentive and Mary Carroll's Bar & Beer Garden.
Massa's Pizzeria(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)
At Massa's Pizzeria, 345 E. Main St. in Huntington, pizzaiolo Bill Massa bakes pizzas in a coal-fueled oven at temperatures exceeding 900 degrees. Pizzas are strictly by the pie, not the slice. There also are a few appetizers, salads and entrees, such as chicken Parm. Find it: Although the address is on East Main Street, the pizzeria is around back, facing the municipal parking lot on Gerard St. GPS 80 Gerard St, and you'll be directed there. You also can get there through a passageway that leads through a building fronting Main Street. Confusing, no?
Tasty American Coo Coo(Credit: Nicole Horton)
Tasty American Coo Coo, 46 Gerard St. in Huntington, is a bright little counter-serve eatery offering the Persian-Middle Eastern-American fare of chef-owner Sha Safaii (pictured). His appealing, well-priced array of vegetarian and nonvegetarian dishes come with coo coo bread, a flaky flatbread similar to Indian naan. There's a full array of kebabs as well as a specialty called coo coo sabzi, best described as a crustless quiche. Find it: Don't seek it at its given address but, rather, off a walkway bordering the municipal parking lot between Wall and Clinton streets in Huntington Village.
Thai Angel(Credit: Doug Young)
Incongruously planted in a sprawling strip mall is Thai Angel, 1812 Veterans Hwy., Islandia, an excellent Thai restaurant. Given its narrow entrance, you will be amazed at how spacious the interior is. It's the skillfully prepared food, though, that's the real attraction. Find it: It's in the Islandia Shopping Center, a few stores down from TJ Maxx.