JT’s Corner Cafe is a shape-shifter of sorts.

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What started out as a breakfast and lunch spot morphed into an ambitious dinner destination a few years back. Now, the place has reverted to its original self, with breakfast and lunch dishes offered Monday to Saturday from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.

I stopped in early one recent morning and was heartened by the blueberry pancakes, made from a “scratch” batter rather than a mix (standard practice at too many breakfast spots). True, the flapjacks were the size of hubcaps (I took home the greater part of a short stack),  but they were fluffy and moist and wholesome tasting.