Here’s what I love about Suffolk’s South Shore: Head south on almost any street and you stand a good chance of encountering a clam bar, just before you encounter the Great South Bay.

Heading east on Montauk Highway Friday night, I made a right turn onto Atlantic Avenue in West Sayville and very soon found myself at Kingston’s Clam Bar, which shares this terminus with the West Sayville Boat Basin. A deck runs the length of the dining room, the umbrella-topped tables looking out over the moored boats.

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I started with six little neck clams on the half shell (excellent, but why wouldn’t they be?) and then moved onto a very impressive lobster roll. The lobster meat was bound with very little herbed mayonnaise and had been spooned into a top-cut brioche hot-dog roll that was almost too rich. But just almost.

A pint of Blue Point Summer Ale, the sunset, heaven.