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La Bistecca, handsome and low-key, is framed with (Credit: Jeremy Bales)

La Bistecca, handsome and low-key, is framed with dark-wood wainscoting and molding, painted in sunny shades, and delivered with trademark polish. (Oct. 18, 2012)

La Bistecca

Nostalgia is the nightly special at La Bistecca. This new restaurant reminds you why some things outlast the trendlet del giorno, not for any sentimental reason but because they're just good.

La Bistecca in Valley Stream. (Oct. 18 ,2012)
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

La Bistecca in Valley Stream. (Oct. 18 ,2012)

La Bistecca, handsome and low-key, is framed with
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

La Bistecca, handsome and low-key, is framed with dark-wood wainscoting and molding, painted in sunny shades, and delivered with trademark polish. (Oct. 18, 2012)

Eto Purisic explains the specials at La Bistecca.
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

Eto Purisic explains the specials at La Bistecca. (Oct. 18, 2012)

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La Bistecca bartender Dora Szukics. (Oct. 18 ,2012)
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

La Bistecca bartender Dora Szukics. (Oct. 18 ,2012)

Customers dine at La Bistecca. (Oct. 18, 2012)
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

Customers dine at La Bistecca. (Oct. 18, 2012)

La Bistecca's osso buco: very tender, very good.
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

La Bistecca's osso buco: very tender, very good. (Oct. 18, 2012)

La Bistecca's rack of lamb, with a mustard-and-breadcrumb
(Credit: Jeremy Bales)

La Bistecca's rack of lamb, with a mustard-and-breadcrumb crust. (Oct. 18 ,2012)

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