La Tavola sets a grand table. Make that tables: hand-built from antique boards, rustic and mismatched, more distressed than the economy.

The warm, country trattoria fills them with full-flavored food, affordably priced. The new spot with old ways is an offspring of the Ruvo restaurants in Greenlawn and Port Jefferson, owned by the four DeNicola brothers. Their latest, homey destination is decorated with colorful, stylized paper-cut images by Douglas DeNicola and defined by an affection for family traditions, including their father's hand-carved art. La Tavola delivers a taste of authenticity.

THE BEST

Executive chef Joseph DeNicola excels with Italianate small bites. Try crudo of yellowfin tuna with mint-chile oil or fluke with terrific tomato confit flecked with raisins and pine nuts; crostini with a spread of sweet pea, mascarpone and mint, finished with prosciutto, or white-bean puree mixed with pancetta and rosemary. His antipasti turn addictive with crunchy, mellow arancini, Ping-Pong-size rice balls filled with fennel sausage and provolone; and a delectable burrata Caprese for two, the mozzarella-and-cream cheese-within-cheese set on paper-thin slices of pear, accented with prosciutto and sage. Complement these with a salad of fennel, orange, pignoli, basil and ricotta salata. Then consider puffy potato gnocchi in a lush Bolognese sauce; or orecchiette tossed with housemade sausage, broccoli rabe, hot peppers, garlic and olive oil. Fine main courses range from the splashy Montauk striped bass paired with braised fennel and tomato-red pepper aioli to confit of duck leg with delicious braised lentils; grilled pork tenderloin with sweet apple-vin santo chutney to elemental chicken scarpariello and chicken Parmigiana. Eclectic desserts: apple brown Betty, vanilla panna cotta, chocolate-hazelnut tart, gelati, biscotti.

THE REST

Routine pizzas with good, diverting toppings; so-so fried artichokes with better roasted garlic aioli; cannoli, more tangy than sweet.

THE BOTTOM LINE

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Bring friends, family, an appetite.