The calendar calls for the lighter side of Italian cooking. Here are three restaurants that know it well.
This downtown mainstay sends out satisfying carpaccio, beet-and-goat-cheese salad; a grilled eggplant-mozzarella-tomato pizzette and another with spinach, speck and fontina; cannelloni in meat sauce; orecchiette with sausage, broccoli raab and olives; and chicken scarpariello.
SOTTO SOPRA , 231 Main St., Amagansett
Very Hamptonian and pretty good, too, Sotto Sopra is a stylish little place. Try the pizzas, pastas, finfish. Linguine with clams and spaghettini with shrimp in a modestly spicy sauce, the Margherita and "picante" pizzas, and oven-roasted swordfish are tasty choices.
VERACE , 599 Main St., Islip
Dine alfresco, weather permitting, and enjoy Verace's cheeses and salumi; sweet Gorgonzola, mozzarella and pear pizza; focaccia with rosemary and sea salt; gnocchi in Taleggio cheese sauce; maltagliati pasta Bolognese; shrimp fra diavolo; and, at lunch, the four-cheese panino.