The Centereach restaurant was the first link in this mini-chain owned by Jack Martino. When he bought that location in 1970, it was already called Mama's, "but we would have named it after my mother anyway," he said. Each restaurant accommodates a pizzeria and a proper, tableclothed dining room; in Centereach the dining room is entirely separate and goes by the name Café Figaro. Mama's menu is straight-ahead Italian-American. Specialties include veal Sinatra (with jumbo shrimp, spinach and provolone) and chicken Sophia (with jumbo shrimp, crabmeat and mozzarella). We also enjoyed the stracciatella (chicken-egg-drop soup with spinach) and broccoli rabe.