Good seafood restaurants are surprisingly few in Nassau and Suffolk. Here are four dependable ones.
WILDFISH, 507 Guy Lombardo Blvd., Freeport; 516-442-0565
This warm-weather, Freeport spot offers a waterside setting to complement the fish and shellfish. Try tuna crudo accented with yuzu, scallop seviche, the lobster-themed Cobb salad, clams oreganata, fish-and-chips made with cod, and kung pao-style calamari.
JACK HALYARDS, 60 South St., Oyster Bay; 516-922-2999
Although not strictly a seafood house, Jack Halyards excels with grilled swordfish, calamari fired up with hot cherry peppers and tomato sauce, ahi tuna tartare nachos, kung pao-style shrimp, a Maryland crabcake, and oven-roasted Chatham cod with white clam sauce.
SEA LEVELS, 391 N. Windsor Ave., Brightwaters; 631-665-8300
A staple in Brightwaters, Sea Levels' fare includes Long Island clam-and-corn chowder, Blue Point oysters and littleneck clams, fried calamari, shrimp cocktail, sesame-crusted tuna with warm soba noodle salad, and crabmeat-crusted salmon.
REEL, 1 Main St., East Rockaway; 516-341-7222
Chef Adam Goldgell, who appeared on the Food Network's "Restaurant Express," makes a memorable appetizer dubbed "oysters 2 ways," one a cream-and-Pernod stew with shellfish in an espresso cup; the other, crisp, cornmeal-crusted oysters. Also notable: mussel pots, beer-battered fish-and-chips, pan-sauteed monkfish Caribbean-style.