The search for great pasta takes you all over Long Island. This farinaceous quest does have its dips and swerves. But there are few explorations that can be as much fun. Here are some winners from the latest investigation.
* Pappardelle alla Bolognese at , Valley Stream
* Cavatelli with sweet sausage-and-tomato stew and ricotta, at , Hewlett
* Penne alla vecchia bettola, or with spicy oven-roasted tomato sauce, at , East Hampton
* Gnocchi with tomatoes, basil, eggplant and mozzarella, at Jonathan's Ristorante , Huntington