Pastrami King is back under the ownership of the Yamali family, which owned the original Pastrami King restaurant in Kew Gardens during the '80s and '90s. Family patriarch Abe Yamali, who opened the Merrick place in 2002, sold it the next year. He died shortly afterward. Last year, Yamali's children, Joseph, Butch and Alissa, took back the business.

Now, according to Joe Yamali, they have renovated the place and brought in many former staff members. They are using their father's old recipes and offering a menu with both traditional kosher-style items, like pastrami on rye, and contemporary dishes, such as blackened cowboy steak.

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The 200-seat restaurant, which has a party room and a takeout counter, is closed on Mondays.

It would be a shondah if Pastrami King served anything less than a stellar pastrami sandwich. In fact, it is generous, succulent and entirely satisfying - as are the corned beef and tongue sandwiches. (Ask them to heat up the tongue.)