It’s been six weeks since Portico Wood Fire Grill moved into the cavernous space last occupied by Pomodorino (which has relocated elsewhere in Hauppauge; see below).

I stopped in for dinner, which began with a margherita pizza. It had a crisp, light crust and mellifluous topping of tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil. But  “chicken parm” panzarotti –  little fried dumplings – were on the oily side. So, too, was chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella over fettuccine in a lemon-herb-white wine sauce, a heavy-handed presentation.  Best, by far, was a spicy, juicy andouille sausage-crusted pork chop: pig topped with more pig. Hard to beat that combination.

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Portico Wood Fire Grill is at 648 Motor Pkwy., Hauppauge, 631-849-3661,