Since it opened in 2006, Prime has been one of Huntington's destination restaurants, a big and buoyant sparkler. Gregg Lauletta became executive chef in 2008; he still runs the kitchen and keeps its three-star rating.

Steak and seafood remain the attractions, plus the grand waterfront site, sharp design and perpetual buzz. They could lower the decibels, but maybe that's integral to the experience.

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What definitely is: excellent filet mignon, strip steak and the Tellers rib eye, a reference to another eatery from the Bohlsen Restaurant Group, Tellers Chophouse in Islip. Even the "Wellington," the cliche of pastry-encased filet mignon with mushroom duxelles, could make you reconsider this dish. You'll also enjoy the "millennium" lobster, with a flash of spice atop lush mashed potatoes. The house-made Tater Tots are superspuds, too.

Prime periodically adds "road trip" American fare. Recently, Lauletta highlighted California with a delicious spring-onion custard, organic chicken and two fine desserts -- a fig-and-almond tart with mascarpone cream, and an individual lemon-meringue pie.