Here are three restaurants that excel year-round, but have their own special appeal when the leaves start to fall.

THE LAKE HOUSE, 240 W. Main St., Bay Shore; 631-666-0995

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From the waterside setting to the attentive service and especially to the New American cuisine, The Lake House is a delight. Recommended: herb-roasted chicken with honey-roasted cipollini and black truffle-fingerling potato hash; littleneck clam chowder.

CHACHAMA GRILL, 655-8 Montauk Hwy., East Patchogue; 631-758-7640

Tucked in a nearly anonymous shopping center, Chachama Grill easily could be overlooked. It shouldn't be. The New American fare, with Latin accents, is consistently first-class. Recommended: barbecued duck empanadas, lobster with yellow-corn puree, shrimp seviche.

THE BRASS RAIL, 107 Forest Ave., Locust Valley, 516-723-9103

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The bar merits landmark status and the restaurant is on its way. Visit for spirited, eclectic dishes, such as crab-crusted grouper, cornmeal-crusted halibut, tuna steak au poivre, a Cuban sandwich, lobster bisque, steak frites, the short-rib quesadilla, deviled eggs, fried oysters.