This is Long Island's only branch of the popular, nationwide chain of steak houses. At this address, Ruth's Chris is a glittery, high-end operation where carnivores cavort, a booming establishment where excess is exalted and red meat is finished with extra butter.

Those steaks are broiled at 1,800 degrees, and understandably served sizzling. This is food that announces itself.

The generously marbled ribeye, the porterhouse for two, the T-bone, the New York strip, the filet mignon--all recommended for all the right reasons.

Crusty lamb chops almost rival them. But you can pass on the pork chops, veal chops, and grilled finfish. If you want seafood, try one of the lobsters, which are three pounds and up, very pricey, and very good.

Delicious burgers are served only during the lunchtime service.

The preliminaries are led by the crab cake and the shrimp cocktail. No need to spend time with barbecued shrimp, stuffed mushrooms, fried crawfish or the saute of escargots and artichoke hearts.

Many of the side dishes are routine. Have a baked potato or the creamed spinach.

advertisement | advertise on newsday

Cheesecake, predictably, is the top dessert.

-Peter M. Gianotti