San Marzano

38 Merrick Ave. Merrick, NY 516-546-3300

The Caprino pizza at San Marzano in Merrick,

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

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Type: Pizza Price range: $ (Inexpensive) Description:

The fragrance of wood smoke fills this small cafe where pizza is sold by the slice or the pie. Try the bright Margarita on a chewy-crisp slightly smoky crust. There's also a bacon-and-egg pizza and steak and onion pie.

At this boutique-y pizzeria with brown checkered cloths, the air is scented with wood smoke, which also imbues the crust of the Margherita pie. It's pebbly, blistered, topped with a simple combination of freshly made mozzarella, tomato sauce and basil. The best is the Margherita pizza, $9; Runners-up include a pizza bianca crowned with fontina, Gorgonzola, speck prosciutto and caramelized onions. Also, a bacon-and-egg pizza done with mozzarella, pancetta, egg, goat cheese and Pecorino Romano.